Adapting a String Jig for a Greater Range of Strings

 

 

Note:

I'm aware that there are techniques for making Flemish strings without jigs, either simply starting with strand lengths from 15" to 20" longer than you need (depends on who you talk to) or making a loop on one end and using a bowyer's knot on the other. These work fine if you're used to them. I don't care for the first method because it seems to variable and liable to inconsistencies, and I don't care for the second because I don't like the idea of a knot on the end of my pretty bow. I think more trad shooters who make their own strings use jigs than any other method, and I rather enjoy jigging. Once you get your personal scale set, it's pretty consistent, too.

 

 

I recently discovered when I helped someone make a kid's bow that I couldn't make a string short enough for it in my jig. Yesterday someone asked where they could get short strings for their kids bows. They needed two. Dad had made the bows but didn't know how to make strings yet.
I decided that since my afternoon was free, I'd play with the idea. My first thought was to figure out the layout for a smaller string jig. However, when I got down to it, I discovered that if I simply drilled additional holes in my existing jig, spaced the same as those already there, I should be able to get down to a nominal 36" string. That's still not short enough for a 36" kids bow, which would want 33", but then I realized that additional shortening could be accomplished by simply starting on a lower pin at the other end. The pins appear to be spaced such that they would reduce string length by 1" for each pair of pins you moved down as a starting point. Since I don't plan on any bows that short, the need for a string shorter than 36" should be a rare need in any event.
I didn't want to modify the jig without a test and I needed strings of 40" and 46" for the two kids, so I put a brad in the spot I figured would produce a 40" string and had at it. I made 10 strand strings, which is massive overkill, but I figured kids strings should be large enough for them to feel easily and able to take a beating, plus I reasoned that they are probably shooting arrows with 1/4" nocks, and real thin strings would take more building up for the arrows to grip. The first string came out right on 40" after stretching. I could wish it had come out an inch longer, as I like to twist my strings up pretty tight. Next I put another brad in at what I thought would produce a 47" string, an inch longer than the 46" needed for the second string. Again, the string came out right at the desired measurement of 46" and again, I wish it had come out that inch longer.
However, both strings should work fine and now I have a basis to build a good relative scale on the modified jig when I drill the additional peg placement holes. I'll finish the work on the jig and serve the two strings tomorrow and mail them off to the dad with two stringless sons who are waiting to shoot the bows he made for them.
One thing I've learned is that string jigs are set up with at best only nominal measurement scales. How long a string a given setting produces depends on how tightly you twist, and everyone twists a bit differently, so when you get a jig, you have to make a few strings, measure them and mark your own scale. Although I only work with B50, I'm sure changing string material, and changing the number of strands, would also affect the length scale, due to less stretch.

Today I finished up the jig modification, served the strings and took some pix. But for the benefit of the inevitable newbies to string twisting, here's the material. At a later day, I'll try to do some pix of actually making a string. It'll be challenging to show the twisting in still pix, which is all I can do.

 

 

Here's the jig as it was. It's a standard jig from 3 Rivers. I marked it per their instructions and added a piece of white tape with a mark at where I ended up for making my usual strings for my preferred 66" longbow length. I use the actual ending string length for my scale marking, rather than the bow AMO length, so my mark here is at 63".

 

 

My first effort at seeing whether simple extension of the peg holes would work out. I placed a masking tape scale alongside the existing holes, then marked the placing of the additional holes at 1/2" spacing. The original holes started at a nominal length of 72" and you could supposedly count down from the top hole to get, progressively 1" shorter strings for each hole. I twist tight and found that didn't work for me. I needed to go one or two holes less to get the length I wanted. The additional markings went down to a nominal length of 36" if you didn't use a center peg at all. Again, this is based on the company's original marking scale, starting at 72".

Not wanting to drill holes till I had tried this out, I put two small brads in at the points that "should" produce a 40" and 46" strings. I moved up one "position" in each case to allow for my tight twisting. As noted above, I could have moved up two positions and come out a bit better. Now I know that for shorter strings I need to move up at least two, maybe even three.

 

 

Here's the jig with the additional holes drilled. Note the white peg. It's a 1/4" nock, which I find works better than a wooden peg. A bit of serendipity struck. I didn't have the same size drill for the holes as the originals and ended up using a size smaller. The 1/4" nock fits the larger holes when the forward end is inserted and fits the smaller holes well when the nock end is inserted. When I get around to making a whole new jig, which I want to do just for the fun of the project, I'll use all 1/4" holes, the smaller size.

 

 

Next step was to lay a piece of tape alongside the holes. I put down 1" tape, which was too wide, then cut it with a sharp knife. I marked the positions that I now know will work for several specific lengths... 63", 59", 46" and 40". These marking are not a regular "countdown" as you might expect, but are what I know from experience will work. As I make strings of other lengths, I'll add additional markings at known good working positions. The more successful points I get identified, the easier it will be to simply make judgements on new string lengths and be confident of coming out right.

 

 

Here is another trick I find very helpful. Before starting a winding, I set this little piece of 1/8" plywood between the pegs. When the winding is done, you have to slice the strands with a razor or sharp knife, and the piece of wood prevents marring the top of the jig. Note the 8" mark at the edge. There is another mark out of the picture for 9". These are the nominal lengths you use on the ends to begin your twisting for loops... 8" for longbows and 9" for recurves and the marks let you position your hand on the string bundles at the correct starting point for your twist.

 

 

Here's how I set up my jig for use. I place one block with a hole and a piece of pvc in it to act as a spool holder at one end and another block at the other. I clamp these firmly to the bench or table, locking the jig in place so it doesn't move while I wind. With the jig held firmly this way, I can wind quickly and accurately, maintaining an even tension.

 

 

New issue: How to you tension a string for serving? I normally use the strung bow, clamping it to the table edge. What to do in this case, where I didn't have the bows? Well, if you're fortunate enough to have a good wood working bench with dog holes, the solution isn't hard. I dropped two wood turning chisels with long handles into the dog holes, one in the bench top and one in the end vise, tied the strings to the handles and then opened the vise until I had a suitable tension for serving.

 

 

Hopefully, these pix on jig use will form a good intro to something I hope to do showing the actual making of a string. The more I've put this page together the more I'm inclined to give that a try...

Captain Dick