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Actually, this one is only a "Universal Singer Treadle." Since I am not actually messing with any machines except 31-20's/clones and standard Singer 15's/clones, I didn't need an opening with greater depth.

The "large hole and separate inserts" method is the simplest way to go if you want to use machines of many different brands/base sizes. I have made several universal treadles this way. Since they were always my primary treadle at the time, I never tried to deal with any lowering, flip tops or leaf extensions. Far simpler to just put an oversized top on and leave the machine up. If you like, you can always get a coffin top to set over it, though a sewn machine cover (I think there is an example in the Quilt Shop) is more convenient.
Right now i have a "semi-universal" or "universal Singer" top. It's an industrial power stand top that was cut out for a Singer 31-20. It happens that the base depth of the 31-20, 31-15, a number of modern Singer industrials and the regular home or standard base Singer all share that same depth. The bases differ only in length and the 31-20 is the longest. I installed pins in the left hand lips of the opening and made a plastic filler for the open space when a standard machine is in place. Works great, looks great and I can now use all my standard based singers in it, as well as my industrial Singers, Pfaff 134 and Husqvarna. I am going to want to use a 28 in it sometime this year so I will need to make an adapter insert.

31-20 in place, filling cutout. Tilt back pins can be used on this machine.	Singer 191U in place, with black plastic adaptor at left. Tilt pins are not used on this machine. It just sits there and works fine.
Necchi Espiria in place.	Close up of Necchi Espiria and adaptor plate.
The top is a commercial power stand top with cutout for the 31-20, mounted on a Singer industrial treadle. I added these drawers

The only problem, and it's very slight, with this setup is that plate castings do vary in thickness. I cut several of those quarter size spool pin felts in half and keep them handy to insert under corners to adjust the height and level the base.

Long, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I used to have a very nice hand carved dog ventriloquist figure... and a pretty good act for him. When I retired, I sold of most of my figures, including the dog. Recently, I have been getting calls to perform again. This led me to start going through and cataloging old materials and routines, and I decided that I really wanted to do the old dog routine again. I had a show coming up in exactly a week... problem... no dog. So, I decided that even though I hadn't built a vent figure in a dozen years, I would build a dog for this show. I no longer had a lot of the tools and equipment I used to have when I was building figures regularly, nor did I have the fine basswood for carving. I had also forgotten many of the little tricks I used to use to do the job better. What did I have? Some basic power tools... saws and belt sanders... a pine board and a short deadline! As I worked, I remembered a lot of the tricks. Some I couldn't use because Ididn't have the tool, others I could have... if I'd remembered them before I had passed that point in the project! But, it all came together. I started on Sunday Feb. 22 and had the basic dog finished Saturday Feb. 27. He's about as crude and simple as a working ventriloquist figure can be, but he's made of wood as per tradition (almost no one used wood figures today) and I think he'll be a lot of fun. His character is a sad Basset Hound with a lot of problems. Today, the 28th, he will make his debut at a show in Edmonds, WA. Wish us well....

Way back in 2000, we had a TOBE for Delft Blue blocks. Mine got stuck away in my closet and forgotten. While digging for fabrics for the Rectangle Island Mystery Quilt, I came across this treasure trove of blocks. Now, they are a quilt... plus a smaller piece that could be a lap quilt, a hanging or be claimed by Callie.